Acequia Part 09: Tiempo

A well documented event.      Photo: EMHS

I’m not the first one to make a movie about the matachines dances in San Antonio, New Mexico.  The event has been well documented on local television and by museums in the area.  “But,” as San Antonio’s mayordomo Chris Jinzo would say, “it goes back even further.”

San Antonio was featured in John Ford’s Grape’s of Wrath and there is even a rumor that Thomas Edison came up this side of the mountain to shoot some footage after filming Indian Day school.  Today a rich movie making tradition continues along the Turquoise Trail.

A Confederate soldier’s depiction of the Sandias. Photo: EMHS

Before there were cameras, there were drawings.  During the Civil War, the South planned to secure the vast mining network of America’s frontier territories.  The campaign culminated in one of the Civil War’s bloodiest battles at Glorieta Pass, dubbed “The Gettysburg of the West.” Along the way, Confederates stayed a night in San Antonio and one soldier sketched the Sandia’s gentle, slopping peaks.

Before American illustrators, the Spanish mapped out the outposts along the Camino Real, including the ojo grande water source at San Antonio.  The pueblo and plains Indians have marked the land with pottery shards scattered in the earth, matates carved into the ridge, tipi rings in the meadows, and arrowheads in the shadow boxes of local collectors.  Further up the hill, the leftovers of the prehistoric Sandia Man‘s dinner once littered a cave.

Law of the land.

All of these artifacts are here because the water is here.  The purity and flow of the little stream behind San Antonio church runs because of hundreds if not a thousand years of stewardship.  Even as encroaching development endangers this precious natural resource, ancient forces have been successful in preserving the acequia.

“No man steps in the same river twice,” Heraclitus wisely remarked.  The ojito may look the same as when our ancestors first encountered it, but it is still evolving, continuing to be shaped by human impact over time.  What will its future hold?

Flowing with memories.

This movie Acequia captures a nostalgic moment in time for me.  In the background of some of these scenes I can see and hear my parents and neighbors participating in the day’s festivities.  These are the mountains of my youth and where I return to whenever I run out of green chile.  I’ve since grown up and moved away from the area.  Like so many who have rested at this spot, it turns out that I was just passing through.  I’m may not be of this place, but after drinking from the stream, part of me will forever remain under the shady cottonwoods of the ojito. I hope that this movie will continue advocate for the preservation of the acequia at San Antonio.  My wish is that it remains the way I remember it for several generations to come.

San Antonio de Padua, Sandia Mountains, New Mexico.

Acequia Part 6: Pueblos y Praderas

Could this be a tipi ring?

New Mexico’s dry environment does a good job at preserving artifacts.  It’s often hard to tell if something is new or old.  Everything just blends together in the bone-bleaching sun.  One summer afternoon I was taking a walk from my house to the post office.  I went a little further on my route than I should have and came across a section of burnt trees on the side of the trail.  Deciding to investigate, I walked a few yards down the ridge and stopped.  Rectangular patterns of rocks were carefully arranged on the ground.  They almost looked like a foundation of a house, except that they were just single stones resting on top of the dirt.

The original Route 66.

What I found was obviously man-made, but I was baffled by what exactly I came across.  A couple of weeks later I attended a lecture by Chuck Van Gelder, the East Mountain’s resident historian, who is featured in the video above.  He spoke of the huge populations of Apaches and Plains Indians that setup camp in the area.  Being nomadic, they didn’t leave a lot of physical evidence behind.  However, some of their tipi rings remain.  These rings are patterns of stones that were used to stake down the animal skin hides of the cone-shaped tipis. Continue reading

Acequia Part 5: El Ensaya Real

There is time a during every fiesta when the sun grows larger in the sky, stomachs grumble, and everyone takes a break.  No feast day would be complete without a bowl of green chile stew and a tortilla to chew on when the heat becomes too much.  As the afternoon drones on, the community settles into their lawn chairs and lethargically squints out at the play that has resumed on the plaza.

A 500 year old bullfight.

Kicking up dust in the center of the courtyard a cowboy lassos a guy in a bull costume and then frolics with a cross-dresser. The crowd cheers and chuckles. It’s fun to watch the same neighbors that you run into at the grocery store clown around, but what does it all mean? Everything is open to interpretation.

According to the church bulletin, the Ensaye is a play that comes from the village of Santa Fe, near Granada, Spain and was written in 1503.  It tells the story of how the Spanish converted the Muslims to Christianity after they tried to steal the Holy Cross.  The conquistadors performed the dance in an effort to evangelize New Mexico’s Native Americans, but instead, the Pueblos infused the spectacle with their own culture and beliefs.  Throughout the years the role of each character has flip-flopped between good and evil to reflect the preferences of the performers. Continue reading